One of the most interesting areas of Vietnam must surely be the north-west, a region of rugged, mountainous terrain and rice terraces, populated by the colorful Montagnards, the name bestowed upon the ethnic hill tribes by the French. The town of Sapa is a popular destination for tourists.

Many visitors arrive at the weekend to coincide with Sapa's markets. The local women and children flock into town to sell their produce and wares. Tourists snap up the cheap hand-embroidered clothing and textiles. They discover only at a later date that the indigo dye favored by the Black H'mong people is not set, their bodies exhibiting a deep shade of blue. Far more fun, however, is to leave the town and visit the people in their villages, trekking through the rice terraces with the opportunity to spend a night at a home-stay.

From Sa Pa, the road leads through Muong Hoa valley that features the famous ancient rock field and Mount Fansipan in the distance. A trip usually lasts 3-4 days, every day walking about 5 hours, it's harder day after day, sometime one has to crawl up the steps, climbing through the hills and mountains.

At lunch time and evening, you can stop in the wooden floor of the Tay, Red Dao, Xa Pho... in the village of Ho, Thanh Phu, Sin Chai, massage your feet as if they are not yours. In trips, guests can visit the class in the forest, and swim in the springs...

Evening time is ideal for camping in the mountains, burn a fire and play, listen to music of ethnic groups. When tired they go to sleeping bag to keep warm, convenient and keeps insects away.

The home-stay is definitely not for the traveler who cannot live without their modern conveniences but it offers an excellent opportunity for those who want to experience a more gentle way of life.

The government is very strict about tourists wandering off on their own so you need to register with a local travel operator who will obtain the necessary permits and assign a guide to take you from one village to another.

Homestays in the villages are basic so don't expect amenities like hot water and heaters. All you will get is a thin mattress to sleep on and a mosquito net to ward off mossies. On cold nights, your only comfort will be a thick blanket. The toilet is usually an old hut a few metres away where a bucket awaits you. Sometimes it's easier doing your business out in the open.

Meals are usually prepared by your guide, and you better pray that he or she is a good cook. Dinner can take an awfully long time as the villagers use coal or wood to start the fire. Water and electricity is available in most of the villages and you can usually find a shop nearby..

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